On the first day of harvest, Claude Giraud gives his opinion on 2015 and on the quality of the first grapes from Champagne Henri Giraud’s vineyards in Aÿ.
What are your first impressions of this 2015 harvest?
Claude Giraud: “Harvesting began in the Champagne Henri Giraud vineyards this Tuesday, September 8 for the west facing hillsides of Ay which are consistently the first to ripen every year. I’ve always noticed that the great years are those that aren’t much talked about before the harvest. Not too hot, not too cold, and then all of a sudden, when the grapes are harvested, we can see it’s a superb vintage. Usually in a year like 2015 –very hot and very dry –imbalances show up during the harvest, but in fact it’s not at all the case; in 2015 we’ve brought in grapes with exceptional balance. The first juices are giving 11.2° for 8.5 of acidity, which is just excellent.”
How do you explain this?
Claude Giraud: “For Ay, we can offer two reasons: the soft chalk of the Campanian soil protected the vines from hydric stress thanks to their water reserves, and then a series of cool nights allowed these good acidity levels to be maintained. We’re practically at perfect equilibrium between sugar and acidity with a ratio of 23. But I have to say that apart from this perfect balance, it’s the first time in my life that I’ve seen grapes that are this healthy and completely pest-free. It’s really extraordinary.”
What winemaking approach do you intend to adopt for the 2015 wines?
Claude Giraud: “The first tastings at the press confirm all our expectations: there’s a lot of flavour. This confirms the tremendous aromatic concentration that we detected in the first samples taken in the vines mid-August. We prepared for this concentration phenomenon by toasting our barrels in an unusual way. Our barrel makers stopped toasting just before the moment of maturity. There are very few people in the world who have the ability to stop this charring process by nose using the clearly defined olfactory stages of development which vary from forest to forest. This year we selected wood from two excellent forests in the north of the Argonne: Valmy and Lachalade. Their tautness will tame our stronger Pinots. In a year like this one, this kind of expertise is Champagne Henri Giraud’s secret weapon and is what will make all the difference. This will certainly be a very great vintage, but the winemaker will require immense skill to harness its strength.”
