In Sicily, the 2013 harvest has just started. Compared to many other parts of Europe, it seems that maturity is on time in Sicily and quality looks pretty good. On the first day of the harvest, we interviewed Matteo Catania from Famiglia Catania on the beginning of the 2013 harvest at Gulfi.
Matteo, how does this 2013 harvest look like up to now at Gulfi?
Matteo Catania: “We are very happy and we just started harvesting on monday 12 August. In fact, weather conditions are just perfect for maturity. It’s warm during the day and cool at night, so grapes look great and the first juices we tasted with my brother Davide are excellent. We are just beginning and we need to wait for the crus in Pachino and the grapes on Etna. But the work we have done in the vineyards all year long seems to have paid off !”
Why Famiglia Catania was very early keen on organic culture?
MC: “We have not been a pioneer in organic culture in Italy for marketing reasons. Indeed, here, the organic approach existed long before the labels came… Long before these labels, we were talking about “naturalita” to those who discovered our wines. At that time, when we were told we had to stop the Albarello system in favor of more international methods, we said that the most natural environment for the vines was built around this system. We were explaining to those who thought we were crazy that Albarello was the most effective way to protect the grapes from the sun, from diseases, and to create a perfect ecosystem. The ideal life for insects, for example, is to fly around each vine: the Albarello permits it.”
Being organic is now a priority for you?
MC: “Being organic is not more of a priority today than yesterday. Recreating the most natural environment has always been our goal. We were talking about “naturalita” when we were told to stop the indigenous grape varieties for the benefit of international varieties. Why? Because we are convinced that the indigenous varieties are ideally suited to the natural environment of our place, here, in Sicily. Naturally more resistant, our massal selections show again that before talking about being organic, we must talk about culture, history and ecosystem. Being organic with Syrah or Cabernet Sauvignon has never interested our family.”
The concept of “Naturalita” is stronger than everything else?
MC: “It’s a way of life and a state of mind. It may be easier for us to think of “Naturalita” because we are in Sicily, a region blessed by the gods. But I can assure you that there is nothing easy, even in a region blessed by the gods. Even with the very high temperatures we can experience in Sicily, Gulfi has always refused irrigation, another form of “Naturalita”. We also talked about “Naturalita” when we were told that we had to use machines to replace workers. We have always been against packing the soil or polluting our environment. The man does the best job in the greatest respect for nature. Nothing should be left to chance if you want to get the most exceptional grapes at harvest time.”
(You can reach the writer at info@vitabella.fr)